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Taittinger : Conte de Champagne, we caught Tinker Bell in Saint-Nicaise

Sep 24, 2020 • 2 mins

What exactly was this fleeting appearance that lasted no longer than a split second? Strange things happen inside the walls of the Maison Taittinger. They seem to happen every time we open a bottle of Comtes de Champagne.
Our curiosity has been sparked…

Tinker Bell is dancing around in the glass, suspended by a fine thread of bubbles that rises to burst on the surface and causes a ripple across her translucent wings. There is no Captain Hook here to spoil the excitement this time. Just as there is never a lack of excitement when uncorking a bottle of Comtes de Champagne. Peter Pan is keeping an eye on the situation, making sure everything goes according to plan. In this lovely month of May, he appears to us in the form of Alexandre Ponnavoy, Cellar Master at Maison Taittinger. His youthful appearance removes any doubt from our mind: yes, it’s Peter Pan!
Just like this cuvée that he is closely examining, which continues to withstand the test of time, Alexandre’s childlike enthusiasm is the quintessence of freedom, adventure and discovery.

From the very first sip, the “Comtes de Champagne 2007” immerses us in a dream world with its delicious freshness, its aromas of pear and citrus fruit and its delicate salinity, like a fountain of youth. Time seems to stand still when we taste this delicious nectar with its chalky aromas derived from the finest terroirs in the Côte des Blancs. In fact, it feels as if we are taken back in time, as a renewed vigour courses through our veins. There really is something magical about this wine. A magic that Baudelaire described as “rediscovering our childhood at will”.

Peter Pan, or rather Alexandre Ponnavoy, can’t hide his delight. After three years of training with Loïc Dupont, who crafted and aged the wines that go into the “Comtes de Dampierre 2007” cuvée, he is now able to share with us the emotion he felt at “becoming a part of the history of such a renowned champagne house and immersing oneself in its style, its world”. In the dim light of the cellars in the ancient Saint- Nicaise Abbey, he too can’t have failed to notice Tinker Bell hiding behind a barrel or perched upon a pulpit. The magic is infinite. With every bottle of Comtes de Champagne that is opened, it is always released. And here it is again, graceful and fleeting, beckoning us to share in the pleasure of this rare wine that has been left to rest for ten long years in our cellars, patiently waiting for the day when it will finally get the chance to reveal its aromas and, in doing so, awaken emotions in us that we had all but forgotten.