A “pure” tasting: Franck Bonville at Guy Savoy’s

Nov 12, 2020 • 1 min

A lunch at Guy Savoy's was the opportunity to sample Champagne Franck Bonville's Grands Crus Blanc de Blancs "Pur Mesnil" 2014, "Pur Avize" 2012 and "Pur Oger" 2012 paired with a "whole roasted place with a 'land and sea' jus".

Sometimes you have to choose... and sometimes you don't! 

A « pure » selection

The house style is founded on wines with a base of deep Chardonnays hailing from Grands Crus vineyards in the Côte des Blancs. The power comes coated in a lovely maturity, which softens the palate, and the sufficiently high proportion of reserve wine adds a lovely polish to the whole.

For the vintage champagnes, selected by village, there are, of course, no reserve wines used. It is the vintage that will colour the wine's palette and always with lovely luscious tint. 

"Pur Mesnil" has a certain smoothness with softness and just a hint of oxidation. "Pur Avize" brings us structure, spice and exoticism. "Pur Oger" is creamy with a slightly smoky character, notes of tea and just a hint of noble bitterness.

A humble yet luscious pairing

The dish is tasty and pastel-coloured. Even the ‘land and sea’ jus remains subtle - not too iodised, not too earthy. The texture on the palate is trim, more like a smooth Vosges mountain range than a roller coaster. The dish does not seek to impress or make too much of a demand on the taste buds.

My preference is to add structure and spices to give the entire pairing a lift, and the power of "Pur Avize" brightens up the dish. For a harmonious pairing, the "Pur Oger" with its creaminess, delicate notes of tea and just a hint of bitterness will prolong the tasting experience. Lastly, one must turn to the "Pur Mesnil" for a gentle pairing between the smoothness of the wine and the soft palette of the dish.