into-the-secrets-of-the-house-taillevent

Into the secrets of the house Taillevent

Sep 14, 2020 • 2 mins

A dictionary of French culinary grammar, Taillevent is still celebrating the joyful union between food and wine. In a classic style with the grand restaurant on rue Lamennais, in a casual style with its chic brasseries in London and Paris.

Open the door of number 15 rue Lamennais (Paris 8th) and discover this symbol of culinary classicism, with its products enhanced by perfect sauces and expert cooking. At Taillevent, the art of carving and flambéing at the table are a must. A Grand Siècle atmosphere that reassures the aristocracy and bourgeoisie (after all, if nothing changes it means that all is well) and enchants millennials who marvel that the legacy of ancient times has resisted so valiantly to history’s acceleration. 

Taillevent is, on its own, a sort of dictionary of French culinary grammar where everyone can come and check the regularity of a recipe, the purity of a flavour, the exactitude of a stock and the subtle evolution of French gastronomy. Here, there are no enigmatic dishes, no bizarre fusions, no cooking under nitrogen, smoked molecules or acid basting...

All the ingredients can be identified immediately, at first glance and with the first forkful, from langoustine to lobster, turbot to John Dory, pigeon to duck, beef tournedos to saddle of lamb. Head Chef Alain Solivérès is not here to mislead you; he will surprise you with the precision of his craft.

The final judge of a cuisine in constant movement which remains faithful to its standards of balance, rhythm and harmony. The merit goes to the Gardinier brothers, owners of Les Crayères restaurant in Reims and the Château Calon-Ségur in Saint-Estèphe who maintain this institution created in 1956 by André Vrinat and masterfully managed by his son Jean-Claude for 45 years.

The other Taillevent establishment is at number 228 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Completely refurbished in 2014, the Caves du Taillevent (which has a branch in Beirut) is for connoisseurs of fine wines what Ali Baba’s cave is to treasure hunters: 1,500 wines and spirits, from the most famous Grand Crus Classés to the rising stars in winemaking, are hidden there from prying eyes. This treasure of course supplies the grand restaurant but also the wine menus of 110 de Taillevent, the two brasseries in London and Paris which offer their customers 110 wines by the glass (and 330 on the menu) in two different sizes (70ml or 140ml).

Customers can explore the full diversity of all possible combinations between food and wine, in an infinite eulogy to the diversity of flavours and aromas. Are you in?