Champagne Colin, food pairings that lead straight to Vietnam
For seven generations, the Colin family home has been located in the terroir of Vertus, south of the Côte des Blancs, surrounded by Premier and Grand Crus vineyards. Today the family is represented by Richard and Romain.
Their house style is one of very palatable wines, "they don’t tire you out, they have purity and finesse" they tell us. Not over-ripe, not overpowering, no oxidation... the wines are indeed stately and invigorating. We even find this approach on the Rosé de Saignée Premier Cru 2013: "I look for finesse and creaminess in a Burgundy style". But what a finish, what a generous mouthfeel, what a lovely chewiness underpinned by a delicious structure!
On the other side, we have the Vifian brothers from Tan Dinh, said to be the best Vietnamese restaurant in Paris. It serves incredible cuisine without any of those so-called "revisited" dishes, preferring to offer dishes that have been tried and tested. Yes, it’s got it all: flavour and tradition and a modest quest for purity of taste. It's a little thing, but it's everything!
One of the brothers, Robert, is a bit of a wine expert, with knowledge of a magnitude inversely proportional to his modesty and tact. When we go to Tan Dinh, we don't know whether it's for the food or the fantastic wine collection...
The perfect dish for the Rosé de Saignée 2013 (100 % Pinot Noir)
Robert plumps for chicken skewers with cardamom and rice. Yes, that's the title of the dish, ok so it's a bit on the short side and not very grandiose. But that’s good, showing off isn’t really their thing anyway. Robert's approach is to look at the whole picture presented by a pairing rather than its individual elements. He considers the flesh of the chicken as pink meat (like pork). The quality of the meat and the way he cooks it bring out a lovely dense chewy texture and chewiness, of course, means length. We need "a wine that makes you salivate" like this full-bodied rosé with a lovely range. "You definitely need a Pinot Noir" and what's more, one that is a bit assertive due to its age.